I am finally done with this story of Atlas, it is clear that I do not like it more today than at primary school .. Towards the village of Tantan it starts to be flatter. El Ouatia is about 20km from it on the shore. It is there, after 3 months, 2500 kilometer and the half of the trip that a real break proposes in a beautiful way. I would stay 3 weeks in this coastal village to lead a life of premature and happy retirement in the company of what they called here a Djinn. This stopover really fell in terms of climate, a big depression had spread off the Atlantic ... An opportunity to rest properly, eat well and make precious improvements on Mysty.


I know I have to be careful, I've had a lot of rest lately. It has already happened to me to burn all my strength after two or three days by mismanagement of my energy. It's time to find my rythm again. On this cliff coast along the only road, I discover landscapes that remind me of my research routes and stories from travelers ... It's very beautiful. Never been to see the cliffs of my own region in Normandy, but it must be at least as good, certainly less cold here by now. At day 1 back on the road I briefly meet a couple of bicycle, a belgo / Moroccan and his darling, Chinese. We will not stay together that day, I need to hit the road a bit ... I'll leave them behind. The nights on the coast and even a few miles inland are cold. A dozen degrees and humidity is incredibly high and this, from the sunset. One of the improvements that Mysty and I have enjoyed during these three weeks is the creation of an isolated space underneath through a tarp and sail. So, still no tent but almost the same comfort without having to sleep separated from my faithful companion ... Even sleeping next to me I happen to wake up in panic after a nightmares where it was stolen during my sleep . I spend a night near the fishermen with their tiny recycled huts that marry the cliff, almost camouflaged. And another close to the military, in small houses in breeze blocks, they are here to prevent trafficking and illegal immigration to the Canary Islands. I found again my two cyclists 150 kilometers away, two days later at the only service station on the road. We decide to make the last 40 kilometers to Tarfaya together with a fabulous back wind ... Arrived on site, at dusk, they start looking for a hotel. I propose a deal to Sami to "skew" this rule of 0 budget for accomodation that tonigh, once again, is very restrictive: they'll pay my night and I would provide the dinner ... It works. The next morning our paths are separated again, they prefer the coast road to the inland national leading to Laayoune (this time we can choose!). My decision to continue through the land is largely influenced by the information I get from here and there about the state of the coastal road. It will turn out that half of the National 1 (although better than the other way) is in a ... let's say ... painful condition, especially when it comes to rollerblading it. For my luck I still have the wind with me and thank you my God, it's really no luxury. The track between Guelmim (another city further north) and Laayoune will be completely rebuild in two years, we'll be able to cross barefoot without fear of scratching our heels! For now it's a little complicated, some sections are new and slip like on a speed track, others make me spend the worst hours of my skater life... Even equipped in 150mm the grain of the road is so thick that it destroys my feet and knees. The road is so exploded that I am more at ease on the tracks under construction where the compacted sand, although absorbing much the effort remains a lesser evil. I reach Laayoune a little tired of this complicated stretch and tries to let pass this feeling of anxiety with concerning the continuity of my road which is announced more and more difficult. For now I can relax again, I find new friends.

Extrem Omar and Family

Omar found me on the internet, he is a skatepark rider and saw the story of the trip on youtube, he decided to help me. It's been a few days since we've been writing as I was gettin closer to his city. He says he can host me and Mysty. We meet at the entrance of the city, he brings me directly to the house. Once the cart parked I meet Mama and 4 of his brothers. It is a very pretty little house where reigns a beautiful atmosphere, despite the difficult episode that runs through Walid, one of the big brother. He can not get up to greet me, his father at his side. He went to see a healer two days ago for nasty stomach pains. The woman would have recommended treatment that ended destroying his stomach. With his last strength he had returned to find her. She then diagnosed him an imminent death by measuring his fingers and forearms using a rope, to compensate him certainly ... He suffers and seems terrified. Omar started skating just 2 years ago and has already won several national titles, he is the pride of the association Extreme Laayoune which he is part. He is not the only talent of the small structure which from the height of his 4 years of existence can already boasted victories. It must be said that they put the pack here, the city has 2 skatepark and Najib, the president of Extreme is the ideal mentor for these young people in search of accomplishment. My passage is an opportunity to shed some light on their activities, the local TV is rushed for the occasion. I never thought I would ever be able to answer an interview in Arabic ... No, actually, I just recited the little speech that I have oiled well since the beginning of the trip, nothing more. With Omar we will also have a video session one morning, we edit editing for his portfolio of rider.

Zinzin and compagny

We had texted quickly with Sami, the cyclist. I knew they had a very bad time head wind with his darling but they would certainly make it in town by the evening ... Nothing more. The first night I when arrive, after greeting the whole family, Omar is dying to show me the skate park. We are on the way when, on a crossroads, we cross the road of my two bycile travlers friends quite by chance. What a sync, when we know that Laayoune has no less than 220,000 souls! They are tired, we plan to see each other longer tomorrow for a trip in the dunes at the exit of the city. After the visit of the skate park and the lesson with the children, it is exactly at the same crossroads that will be installed for dinner, a beautiful Berber omelette. While we are just starting to eat, a motorcycle tumbles out of nowhere and stops right in front of our table that we share with members of Extreme Laayoune. It is obviously a traveler, it looks like a space pirate straight out of the stars, wandering between the galaxies for millennia ... Enthusiastic to meet another original the motor didn't even stopped yet that I am already standing to greet him. His eyes under his visor and the flag torn behind his bike tells me that he comes from the land of the rising sun. He is twice my age, carrying his hand to his mouth, fingers outstretched and grouped, I realize he asks me if he can eat with us ... He is hungry. Then, seats at my left side a quit extraordinary character : Chen Luang Quan.  In short, he has been traveling the world on a motorcycle for 15 years, traveling through 109 countries andvisibly on a very tight budget. His trip, he decided to dedicate it to peace between people and contries. He carries with him a long rolled white sheet which serves to collect the peace of the world. I connect it directly with Lorin and Sami, cyclists reunited a few hours before at the exact same place, certainly the only two Chinese in town.So we will all meet the next day in front of the Spanish church. We really form a team of shock. After meal shared with this new little clan that is formed we go for a walk in the desert together. I find this configuration of people incredibly beautiful and poetic. I would ride on the bike with Chen while the cyclists are cycling and Omar on my rollerblades. For the first time in my life, I am walking on real dunes. This is a very special moment for me. A moment of great symbolism, the signing of an achievement, the beginning of a new era. 

I am here, like I was in my dream, in this old dream... Life has finally taken me there. Surronded by Omar, Lorin, Sami and Chen, I feel, I know, I am, we are, exactly, perfectly.

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